95th Rifles - Sergeant Charles Edward Blake

[cheng]

hey Dan,
" once in every 10 " 
its ok..i'll just enjoy your number 10 here

and Richard,
David(Hamer)'s not active on the boards anymore?
he will always be the master.....his customs are the ulimate things and i think after seeing his 95th....i like to get back to reality, what possible for me 

BTW...i just noticed that David used those PM flowers for his 95th's crests...that's abig 'yes' form me for being PM-ish...the white lines on their cuffs tells me David must have a jewelrer's hand(s)...did he ever explained how he put on those sargent's stripes so 'transparently'   

[Richard]

and Richard,
David (Hamer)'s not active on the boards anymore?
he will always be the master.....his customs are the ultimate things and i think after seeing his 95th....i like to get back to reality, what possible for me 

BTW...i just noticed that David used those PM flowers for his 95th's crests...that's a big 'yes' for me for being PM-ish...the white lines on their cuffs tells me David must have a jeweler's hand(s)...did he ever explained how he put on those sergeant's stripes so 'transparently'   

Hello, Cheng ...

Two Summers ago, David Hamer visited me in Canada. Since then, he's been a bit quiet. Perhaps he was completely overwhelmed by my Playmobil collection ...

Personally, I think that Arizzo's figure is just a bit better than David's. But, that's only my opinion ...

All the best,
Richard

[Arizzo]

hi there

as promised here is a making of ...

I've never done a such technical translation before, so I hope you understand everything and my english is well enough to make clear how it is done.

I hope all questions are answered by the making-of - however, if you have any further questions, just ask

if you are capable of speaking the german language there is a german version of the 'making of' to be found here

[Arizzo]

1) Tools and Materials

Colours: White, Black, Light Slver, Dark Silver, Gold, Dark Green, Dark Grey, Iron.
(I used acrylic colours from the Games Workshop Citadel Line: Skull White, Chaos Black, Mithril Silver, Chainmail, Burnished Gold, Woodland Green, Salamander Green, Codex Grey, Boltgun-Metal)

Brushes: 1x Size 0, 1x Size 1, 1x Size 2

Dremel or similar multfunctional tool + 0,8 mm drill

Pliers

Optional: small Hammer and a very pointed steelnail

tweezers with small pieces of fabric tape wrapped around the tips to produce antistatic status (shortened pins tend to stick on the tweezers, therefore the tape)

1 rubber to remove the print on the hat

Sanding paper in different sizes

2 chinese eating sticks (cheap ones from the take-away)

fabric tape

1 sheet of white paper

1 white adhesive label

pencil, ruler, scissors, cutter

19 Prym Steel-Needles Art.Nr. 024 293
(Those have a fine small pinhead and are perfect for buttons - nevertheless one has to have a look at each single needle whether it is fine enough - DON’T buy cheap needles - they normally have a very big and unshaped pinhead

1 Needle for decoration purposes (pinhead approx. 2 mm in diameter)

golden giftcord (diameter approx. 1 mm)

Glue (I used „UHU Hart“ and „Tesa Technicoll“ respectively)

Milliput modelling clay Silver/Grey (or sth. similar)

and ... (most important)


Patience & Motivation

[Arizzo]

 

[Arizzo]

 

third pic: left: bad pinheads - right: good pinheads

[Arizzo]

 

pic 1: tweezers with fabric tape

pic 2: chinese eating sticks

pic 3: rubber in used and new condition

[Arizzo]

2) The Body:

You need a dark green body and the dark green arms from an older klicky with movable hands. If you like to do an NCO you need the arms of the green Soldier from the 3859 set (for they have 2 or 3 chevrons resp.).

As an alternative chevrons (or in general: rank insignia) can be painted on the arms or painted on a label which then is attached to the arms (or body)

You cut a square pice of adhesive label 2x2 cm. Then you draw the future button-schedule on the label with a pencil:

The 95th soldier uniform has 3 rows of buttons, with 7 buttons each. The middle row is exactly vertical in the middle, the other two rows do incline from upper outwards to lower inwards.

the distances of the outer lines from the central line are 7,5 mm (top) and 5 mm (bottom). you draw lines on the label connecting these points.

the most upper button is 1 mm beneath the upper end of the label (and thus right below the collar). next button is 2,5 mm below, next again 2,5 mm below and so on. according to this schedule you draw horizontal lines on the label.

On the intersections of the horizontal and vertical lines the the buttons will be placed later on

the label is attached to the body straight and exactly in the middle of the body. the belt is attached and with a very pointed pencil you draw the lines of the belt on the label. eventually the marking for the lowest button in the left row (seen from the front) has to be moved a little bit towards the middle - in the end this butoon has to be placed exactly in the angle of the belt.

now you drill the holes into the body (0,8 mm drill or smaller)

ATTENTION: Do not drill holes on these two markings: second button from below, left row - and: most upper button on the right row (seen from the front) - for there will be the belt afterwards.

OPTIONAL: if you like you may use a small hammer and a very pointed steelnail to mark the holes on the body before drilling the holes. if you have a steady hand however, you may skip these procedure.

after drilling all the holes you remove the label and clean the drilled holes. if one hole is not placed at the marked point: now is the time to try to correct the hole by making it a bit broader - be careful to get it not too broad.

then you glue the shortened needles/pinheads into the holes using the tweezers. use only small amounts of glue on the tip of the needle and remove all redundant glue immediately after attaching the pinheads

option: you may strengthen the connection of the pinheads to the body furthermore by glueing the needles from the inside of the body as well.

that’s it

[Arizzo]

 

[Arizzo]

 

[Arizzo]

 

[Arizzo]

3) The trousers / pantalons:

Unfortunately there are no dark green trousers with black boots available from playmobil. therefore you have to paint the trousers dark green using any trousers with black boots. I used the dark grey trousers from a firefighter.

I used the acrylic colour ‘Woodland Grren’ from Citadel Games Workshop. The colour is nearly perfect, for complete perfection you have to add a small amount of a more darker green (which I didn’t do).

the picture shows trousers at different times of painting.

[Arizzo]

4) The collar

first the serrated epaulettes are sanded to get them smooth

then you break the chinese sticks to get two pieces. the upper piece is wrapped with fabric tape until the collar can be attached to the tip without tottering.

now you paint the collar-stripes and the stripes on the epaulettes using white colour and spot the buttons on the epaulettes with silver colour.

[Arizzo]

 

[Arizzo]

5) The cuffs

the cuffs are attached to the pointed end of the chinese eating stick. then you paint the stripes on the cuffs using white colour and spot the buttons on the cuff with silver colour

the cuffs from playmobil have a small marking on the upper end which helps to determine the broadness of the stripes.

then you attach the finished cuffs to the loose arms and paint the lower inner sides according to the pattern of the cuffs (see picture)